The high notes of these vegan, umami-laden noodles from Lara Lee, the author of Coconut and Sambal, are caramelized shiitake mushrooms, amplified by toasted coconut and ginger, brightened with quick-pickled mushrooms on top. Kecap manis and black rice vinegar gives depth, sweetness, and acidity, bringing the other flavors of the dish into sharp focus. No kecap manis? Substitute 2 Tbsp. dark soy sauce mixed with 2 Tbsp. palm sugar or brown sugar.